Harbor Q: A Different Kind of Barbecue

Harbor Q, located directly across from Manhasset Bay, is a unique barbecue bistro and caterer that emphasizes atmosphere as much as its sweet-and-tangy smoked flavors. The industrial look of the eatery almost makes one forget that they are, in fact, at a barbecue establishment. Maybe it was the soft reggae music of Bob Marley playing in the background that made the barbecue experience so different.

Before I sat down to enjoy complimentary kettle-cooked potato chips accompanied by warm gorgonzola cheese fondue, I noticed the rustic yet immaculate look of the cozy restaurant. Along the walls were black and white photos depicting fishing boats and harbor scenes. The photos were taken several years ago by the proprietor's mother, Monika Dorman.

But the proof is in the pudding, so to speak. Can a place so unlike the traditional barbecue houses of Midwest America actually deliver the sauce-covered goods? In this writer's opinion, yes it can.

Pork lovers and beef lovers alike can enjoy one of two homemade rubs, numbered 117 and 233, that canvas the rib racks like I've never seen before. The numbers represent how many attempts it took to master the rubs for both beef and pork.

The appetizers range from chili ($5.50 for a cup, $6.50 in a bread bowl) to "Buffalo Soldiers," which are egg rolls filled with buffalo chicken and gorgonzola cheese ($8.50). The cheese fries with added chili ($5.99 without chili) had a sweet and sometimes bold taste. I was surprised by the sweet flavor of the chili because I usually expect more of a fiery spice. But the Texas-smoked beef sausage served the flavor well.

I had the option to create a customized salad with a choice of over 35 ingredients ($2.95 for a small, $3.95 for a large portion — additional fee for special toppings), but because it was lunchtime, I ordered from the "express lunch menu."

The lunch menu offered several choices: a pulled-chicken sandwich topped with Harbor Q's original barbeque sauce; chili dogs, and other specialty barbecue items. The one-third rack of ribs ($8.50), also made especially for lunch, was an ample portion. The smoked flavor was consistent with the chili — sweet, bold, and tangy. The pork fell off the bone and did not disappoint. The ribs were served to order; dry with the rub only, or wet with barbecue sauce on top of the rub. The order was complete with a choice of one side: coleslaw, corn bread, sweet potato fries, corn on the cob, and more. The steamed red potatoes were plain and served as a contrast to the main course.

Owner and chef Keith Dorman proved that New Yorkers can cook barbecue with the best of them. It had already been an exceptional experience, but the attentive waitress provided the service to match the meal.

Visit Harbor Q at 84 Old Shore Road in Port Washington to see what I mean.